AUSTRIAN CUISINE

Regionales Cuisines

Viennese Cuisine

Viennese Restaurant

Viennese Coffehouse

Viennese Beisel

Viennese Heuriger

Hot dog stand and Pastry Shop

Welcome to Viennese Cuisine

A small taste of Vienna's many culinary delights

Eat your cake and have it too

REGIONAL CUISINES

Austrian cuisine in general: It is the culinary reflection of an ethnically mixed people who, during the many centuries of the Austrian Habsburg empire's expansion and contraction, have exchanged culinary know-how with Turkish, Swiss, Alsacian, French, Spanish, Dutch, Italian, German, Bohemian-Moravian, Hungarian, Polish, Croatian, Slovenian, Slovakian, Serbian, and Jewish cuisine. It might be reasonable to suppose that Austria, would have a cuisine coposed of all these varied and exitic elements, made into one great big cosmopolitan gastronomic United Nations.

For example, Burgenland cuisine is influenced by its flat topography and proximity to Hungary. Its specialities are prepared with abundant locally grown fruits and free roaming chicken and geese, and include dishes like the 'Burgenlandisches Erdbeerkoch' (a type of baked strawberry mush dessert) and 'Buergenländische Gänseleber' (goose liver simmered with onions).

East southern Kärnten/Carinthia and Steiermark/Styria's cuisines, with Hungarian, Yugoslavian, and Italian culinary influences, feature Mediterranean style foods, including ham, a favourite ingredient in all three surrounding countries, and mild climate herbs and vegetables. Dishes from these areas include 'Steirisches Verhackert's' (diced 'Speck' (Austrian cured ham) mixed with minced garlic and heavy flavoured pumpkin seed oil) or 'Steirisches Poulard' (roasted herb stuffed capon or chicken).

Niederoesterreich/Lower Austria's way of cooking reflects historic ties with eastern, Middle Eastern, and oriental cooking, and includes 'Serviettenknoedel mit Semmelkren' (baked bread loaf with saffron gravy) and 'Gezogener Apfelstrudel' (an almost transparent roll of pastry dough filled with apples which has common culinary roots with oriental 'baklava').

Oberoesterreich/Upper Austria and ancient Salzburg states, which border with Germany and the Czech Republic include culinary classics like the well known 'Linzertorte' (a flaky cake lined with currant or raspberry jam, encased and covered by a lattice of cake dough), and Mozart's home town's speciality, 'Salzburger Nockerln' (a very light dessert soufflé dusted with vanilla sugar).

Tirolean and Vorarlberg specialities, inspired by ingredients native of mountainous poor soil and cool wooded areas with a tradition of importing from Italy and exchanging with Switzerland, include 'Tiroler Leber mit Polenta' (veal or beef liver with onions, 'speck,' capers, lemon juice and white wine served on corn mush), 'Groestl' (sliced pan fried onions and potatoes with or without meat), or 'Schlutzkrapfen' (spinach stuffed pasta pockets, served like 'ravioli,' without tomato sauce only topped with melted butter and Parmesan cheese).

Due to the city's historic past steeped in European history, Vienna' s cuisine is unique and international.

Viennese specialities were created by, and for, people who were influenced by a monarchic system that until the early part of this century was among the most influential European political powers and which had cultural ties to Europe as well as the American New World. As Vienna's Habsburg royal family was involved in power politics as far away as Spain, its cuisine absorbed many international ingredients. Viennese cuisine includes 'Wiener Schnitzel' (breaded veal cutlet which has its twin version in Milan, Italy, called 'Cotoletta alla Milanese'), 'Parmesanschoeberlsuppe' (clear broth with diamond shaped Parmesan cheese flavoured soufflé dumplings created after Vienna's political power became dominant in Northern Italy), and Fiaker Goulash (Viennese paprika beef stew very similar to chilli and to Hungarian goulash), and, of course, the renowned Sacher Torte (chocolate glazed cake filled with either apricot, currant or raspberry jam).

A typical Austrian meal includes usually from 2 to 7 courses according to the importance of the meal's guest or occasion. It is usually made up of an appetizer (Vorspeise), a soup (Suppe), and a main course

(Hauptspeise) with one or two either raw or cooked side dishes (Beilagen). It may also include a dessert which can be either a cake ('Kuchen' or 'Torte'), any baked speciality made with flour ('Mehlspeise'), or a warm or cold after-meal sweet treat ('Nachspeise'). With a fine meal, Austrian adults favour drinking either beer, wine or 'sekt' (sparkling wine). Fruit juices, soft drinks like fruit flavoured waters, and wine spritzers are also favourites among the younger generation of Austrians.

Having no seacoast, Austria is naturally not fish country, except for the freshwater varieties. Carp, Fogosch, pike and, best of all, succulent crawfish (when in season, which is rather short) and various trout from the native lakes and rivers are the best bet. Austrian brook trout and rainbow tare delicious. The most popular way of serving them is "blue", the whole fish boiled in a court bouillon and accompanied by drawn butter. Or try it Müllerin - sautéed in butter to a crisp brown. In summer try cold smoked trout for a delicate entrée.

If you happen to be in Austria on Ash Wednesday, don't miss a Heringschmaus. On this the strictest fast-day in the church calendar, the Austrians adhere to it by eating no meat. Instead, just about every restaurant holds the above-named feast - a buffet packed with every fish and salad speciality imaginable.

Veal and beef dominate the Austrian kitchen, though the various types of schnitzel can also be pork. Austrian sausages are excellent. If you want to try a sampling of a number of different varieties, you can order a sausage platter, and you will be given a generous selection of cold sliced sausages. Frankfurters, named after a Viennese butcher, are excellent and are called Wieners almost everywhere - except in Vienna.

The dumplings named Knödel is an Austrian institution. It leads both rice and potatoes in popularity, but not by much. There is an infinite variety of this dough dish. One group includes the unsweetened type, the dumpling, which appears with meat or goes into soup. Then there are the smaller, more delicate sweet ones, eaten as dessert, flavoured with jam, poppy seed, cottage cheese, and other unusual ingredients

Although Austria is not famous for vegetable cookery, it has several delightful specialities. Puréed spinach is coded spinach, chopped and flavoured with butter, salt and garlic, perhaps a bit of flour, and a little cream. "Rotkraut" (red cabbage), made sweet-sour and flavoured with caraway seed is also good. Mushrooms fried to a delicious crispness in the manner of "Wiener Schnitzel" (Viennese escalope), are not uncommon in better restaurants.

Although Austria is not famous for vegetable cookery, it has several delightful specialities. Puréed spinach is coded spinach, chopped and flavoured with butter, salt and garlic, perhaps a bit of flour, and a little cream. "Rotkraut" (red cabbage), made sweet-sour and flavoured with caraway seed is also good. Mushrooms fried to a delicious crispness in the manner of "Wiener Schnitzel" (Viennese escalope), are not uncommon in better restaurants.

A fairly good green salad, generally lettuce with a vinegar and oil dressing, usually somewhat sweetened, is served almost anywhere. If you don't lide sugar in your salad dressing, say so when you order. A popular  alternative, which may or may not please English and American palates, is a "Gemischter Salat", a dab of several cooked and raw vegetables - not mixed greens as in the states and England; these dabs are neatly arranged in a ring on a plate - a bit of kraut, chopped beets, shredded lettuce, etc.

Slaw, or cabbage salad, is popular, with a vinegar dressing. Bread is crisp and excellent, perhaps the best in the world.

Semmels (baked rolls) and salt sticks and the like are commonly served with meals, along with dark rye bread of various types. Wholemeal bread is to be found in every bakery.

This brief guide lists some restaurants, heurigen, and cafés that I enjoyed while visiting my family in Austria last year and the year before. It makes no attempt at completeness. This guide is written by an American for Americans; please forgive my lack of knowledge. Corrections or comments (from Austrians in particular) are always welcome. I also have a companion guide to Austrian beer available.

VIENNESE RESTAURANTS

Viennese cuisine tends to have south-east European influences, and there are many traditional dishes you can try in Vienna's restaurants, including Wiener Schnitzel, Goulash, Kaiserschmarrn and Palatschinken. Austria is also famous for its coffee houses and the delicious cakes and pastries they serve. Austrian wine is widespread in Vienna, and in addition, traditional drinks such as Schnapps, Enzian (brandy) and Bowl (summer punch) can be enjoyed.

Culinary enjoyments is the main reason to visit a restaurant. In a congenial atmosphere, one tastes Viennese cuisine and may detect its Hungarian, Bohemian and Italian roots; one can find the Balkan and the
Adriatic, the Alpine regions and the Danube: a kaleidoscope of sensuality.
It is also a test of the talent of the chef de cuisine. In the restaurants described in this brochure, masters of culinary art have set out to create a union between traditional Viennese cuisine of yesteryear and contemporary international cuisine: the magic word is 'creativity '
Sometimes these gourmet treats are combined in so-called tasting menus and, after an initial glass of beer, are accompanied by appropriate wines.

VIENNESE COFFEEHOUSE

At the beginning in the Viennese coffee-houses specialities were offered like cocoa, tea, chocolate, mineral water, liquor and wine. The wine was transported by of wagon to the coffee-house. The delivery often lasted a whole day, sometimes even two or more days. The delivery resulted by the way in the 'Wiener Eimer' (Viennese pail), this corresponded to 56,6 litres. The Veltliner was the mostly offered sort: Rotweisser (red-whites), Rote (reds) and Braune (browns).

Small snacks were offered. That was sandwich, sausages or egg dishes. The coffee-house offered also fresh pastry, about Salzstangerl (with salt), Weckerl, Muerbe, Laberl, Brioche or Butterkipferl (butterbakery). Not to forget the so-called Kaisersemmerl (Kaiser-roll) and the Hausbrot (bread). A Mohnstriezel (with poppy) also was a standard-offer. The cafes-pastry shops, emerged in the 19th century, had an abundant offer of pastry, whereby Millirahmstrudel (with milk and curds), Topfenstrudel (with curds) and Apfelstrudel (with apples) are to be mentioned. Nowadays traditionally in coffee-houses beside these food also offered typical Viennese food like Viennese Schnitzel, Schweinsbraten (from a pig) and salads.

The Viennese Café is more than just a place to drink some coffee and to eat something. It is a philosophy of life, synonymous with an easy going cosiness the world over. It is a place in which to exchange ideas and meet people. This is the perfect spot in which to relax, chat, ponder, read newspapers (traditional Viennese cafes carry international newspapers), to review all your new things after shopping, or just to know the gentle Viennese way of life over a piece of apple Strudel or Sachertorte.

HISTORY

The legendary Viennese café is known all over the world. This highly esteemed and very popular institution is visited by people from various countries. Furthermore many poets have written about it and a great number of songs deal with the famous Viennese Café, it's still vivid tradition and it's inviting atmosphere.

The history starts with the following legend:

Twice the Viennese were able to ward off the Turks who laid siege to the city in 1529 and 1683. On the 12th of August in 1683, the Turks attacked the city of Vienna vehemently. Once again the citizens of Vienna under the leadership of count Starhemberg succeed in pushing back the enemy. But nevertheless they realised how dangerous their situation was. They needed help very urgently. Amongst them they nominated Georg Franz Kolschitzky as their messenger to ask Karl von Lothringen for help. Thanks to him and Jan Sobieski, king of Poland, the Turks were defeated. Kolschitzky asked the city-fathers to let him have the bags with nasty-looking green beans, which were left behind by the would-be conquerors after their retreat; and to place a house at his disposal where he would be able to establish the first Viennese coffee-house and to work as a 'Kaffeesieder'. This house was called 'Blue Bottle'. He roasted the green, plain beans, grinded them and boiled them with water. The outcome was the 'coffee'. First he could not sell much, because the people did not like the black, bitter beverage.

One day, by misfortune, sugar got into the black hogwash and it was exactly what was missing. By some more experiments milk was mixed into it - and as a result the 'Wiener Melange' was born, what was THE BIRTH OF A NATION'S PASSION FOR COFFEE

But the reality is more prosaic. First of all Kolschitzky was not the first 'coffee-brewer' and second he was a soldier, who spied as dozens of others too, he was just put up as symbol for his guild. Nevertheless quite a number of other personalities were responsible for the development of the tradition of the cafés like the Armenien Johannes Diodato nicknamed Deodat. He was awarded for his spying with the monopoly for the first coffee-selling for the period of 20 years. His fortune did not last long, because when Belgrad was besieged by Prinz Eugen, he was accused to have spayed for both parties. Only with difficulties he could put down the accusation against him. Immediately. In the year 1700, under the sovereignty of emperor Leopold, Isaak de Luca, Joseph Devich, Andre Beün and Philip Rudolf Perg four other Armenians seized this opportunity and obtained the licence to sell coffee. In rapid succession the business developed. In the year 1714 Vienna had already 11 licensed 'coffee-houses'. The most important opponents of the 'coffee-brewers' were the 'waterbrewers' (destillers) who sold coffee without license. In 1747 empress Maria Theresia had finished this quarrel by uniting this two brotherhoods.

In the middle of the 18th Century the basics of the café-tradition already existed. One could read there news-papers, play cards as well as the game of billiards or just meet friends and have a nice chat with friends

A Viennese coffee-house is much more than just a place where one drinks coffee. It's a true "evergreen".

Among other things, it is an oasis of cosiness - large windows, comfortable seats, marble tables and newspapers from all over the world create an atmosphere where one can meet friends, plan a stroll through the inner city or just write postcards to friends at home.
Many artists around the turn of the last century were inspired by this atmosphere - and coffee certainly played its part. Well-known coffee houses steeped in tradition, such as the "Central" an the "Landtmann", have already become an institution. The youth scene in Vienna has also long size discovered its own cafés: dedicated architects have created contemporary interiors - such as at the "Stein" and the "Blaustern".

There are dozens of different ways to prepare coffee in Vienna.

The most popular are:

-Melange (coffee with milk foam)

-Mokka (espresso) as well as the

-kleiner und grosser Brauner (small and large coffee with cream).

-Fiaker: mocca with rum or brandy

-Einspänner: mocca with whipped cream, served in a glass

Coffee may be accompanied by something from the pastry shelf - Sachertorte, Apple and Sweet Cream Strudel or the famous Guglhupf (a Viennese coffeecake). One may also choose snacks from the menu. Or, in a Café-Restaurant, have a real meal. And on can say:: the coffee-house is more where people enjoy themselves.

VIENNESE BEISELS

The name 'Beisl' comes from the Yiddish word 'bais' or' baiz', which means something like house or dive bar.

The word Beisl itself comes from the language of the Viennese underworld, from a time when you could see old, distinguished grey-haired men trying their luck classic card-game of the Viennese underworld 'Stoss' as well as petty thieves and old men relaxing after (or during) a hard day's work.

At that time, a sort of subculture developed in the Beisls, a friendly, down-to-earth atmosphere in which people mingle with each other and the barkeeper mingles among the people as well. New arrivals can sit down at a table with the others and get to know them over a glass of wine and good conversation.

Viennese Beisels are similar to English pubs and French brassieres. They can be found at almost every corner of the city and their clientele ranges from the working man to the busy manager - both equally enjoy genuine, but plain Viennese food. Such as a Wiener Schnitzel, a tender veal cutlet enveloped in crispy breadcrumbs. Or a Rostbraten, the Viennese equivalent of entrecote; a goulash which the Viennese 'borrowed' from Hungary. And, finally, Kaiserschmarrn, roughly translated as 'Emperor's Trifle', a delicious Viennese dessert.
Regulars, who are essential to the Viennese Beisel, appreciate the low-priced menus and prix fix dinners as well as the close contact with other guests. And with the host or hostess of the Beisel who take good care of their customers. Bon appetit

VIENNESE HEURIGER

The 'Heurige' is one the most special and typical Viennese institutions. You can find these places in all Austrian wine-regions - but nowhere else in the world!

It goes back to Empress Maria Theresia, who released a decree for wine producers, that they may sell their wine and snacks in their gardens to people walking by. But they were only allowed to offer their really own products and nothing else and only for some weeks in the year.
This decree is still valid today!

In former days the people from the city used to leave the city on Sundays walking, riding or going by coach through the Viennese woods and having a nice picnic outside. Or they visited the wine growers for a glass of wine. Since the decree this places became quickly very popular as it was a source of good food and wine for low prices and nice places to sit in, either in rustic cellars, or shady gardens, or directly in the vineyards. As it was a place for 'everybody' more and more it raised to a social and cultural meeting place, where it was easy to get acquainted with others, to have some nice talks and to here traditional music.

The 'Heurige' means the young wine of this year. To go to the 'Heurigen' actually would mean: let's go to have a glass of the new and young wine. And so the name was customised also for the 'taverns'.

Another name is 'Buschenschank' what would mean 'bush-tavern'.

This name leads back again to the decree of Maria Thresia. To be recognised as this kind of tavern the entries had to be marked with a pine boughs hanging over the door, and a latern with light or not to signalise if it's open or closed.

A typical Heuriger is a tavern with outdoor seating at picnic tables in an enclosed courtyard, under a grape arbour, with the stars visible through the leaves. This year's wine is served from the pitcher in glass mugs, with a pitcher of mineral water to prevent hangovers or to make a Gespritzer (wine spritzer).

The most well known Heurigen you can find in the 19th district of Vienna - in Grinzing. This is usually where most of the tourists go.

And it is an absolutely must to go to a Viennese Heurigen. Maybe not for the wine, but especially for the traditional music - Viennese waltz, operettes and the typical 'Wienerlieder' (Viennese songs) - and it is a possibility to get closed to the people, their habits, mentality and way of living. And it is guaranteed a nice experience.

'Heuriger' is the word the Viennese use both for the wine from the last grape harvest and for the establishments at which it is served. And the Viennese exhortation 'Gemma zum Heurig'n!' ('Let's go to a heuriger!') is an invitation to an afternoon or evening of relaxation and pleasure oiled by heuriger music and good wine. Though the wine-growing districts are within the city limits, most of them have retained their original village character.

In each of these places you will discover idyllic side roads and byways. This brochure tells you which heurigers are open ('ausg'steckt') at any one time. This expression comes from the sprig of pine that hangs above the entrance to a heuriger to signify that it is open. For there is a law that a winegrower can only serve wine (and it must be his own) for a maximum of 300 days a year.

Wine connoisseurs and tasters, scene freaks and members of the jet set, all like to indulge in these "oases of cosiness". Some come for the picturesque location, others like the typically Viennese music, others enjoy the hearty buffet; ease to fetch your food usually a simple fare from the buffet yourself. That's all there is to it! Cheers!

HOT DOG STAND OR PASTRY SHOP

"Fast Food" in Vienna is offered at numerous food stands, which are ideal for a quick snack after an opera or a ball.

For food on the move, the Würstelstand is as big an institution in Vienna as anywhere else in Austria, although beware that your Würst tends to be priced according to weight; look out for Leberkäse, a slice of spicy meat sandwiched between two halves of a Semmel.

And at Vienna's pastry shops (Konditoreien) , reigns supreme - with delicacies from Gugelhupf, an exquisite coffee-cake, to the world-renowned Sacher Cake.

DINING AL FRESCO

During the summer, many Viennese culinary delights are served outdoors: in gardens, under pergolas, and in the Schanigärten (sidewalk seating areas) of Viennese Beisels. Many a culinary treat is offered during the annual film festival on Rathausplatz, the square in front of Vienna's City Hall.

WELCOME TO VIENNESE CUISINE

Viennese cuisine is strongly influenced by southeast European cuisine, notably that of Hungary, Serbia, Romania and Dalmatia. Many of the simpler meals are often made with rice, potatoes and dumplings (knödel), with liquid sauces. The main meal of the day is lunch. Mehlspeisen is the national term for cakes and puddings, all of which are wonderfully appetising. There are more than 57 varieties of Torte, which are often consumed with coffee at around 1500. Open all day, the Austrian coffee shop (Kaffeehaus) is little short of a national institution and often provides the social focus of a town or neighbourhood.

DRINKS: Spirits such as whiskey and gin, together with imported beers, tend to be on the expensive side, but local wines (often served in open carafes) are excellent and cheap. Most of the wines are white (Riesling, Veltliner) but there are also some good red wines from Baden and Burgenland, as well as imported wines from other European countries. Generally the strict registration laws mean that the quality of the wine will be fully reflected in its price. Obstler is a drink found in most German-speaking countries, and is made by distilling various fruits. It is usually very strong, and widely drunk as it is cheap and well flavoured. Most bars or coffee houses have waiter service and bills are settled with the arrival of drinks. All restaurants have waiter service.

Welcome to Viennese cuisine seasoned with the ingredients of the imperial-royal monarchy ennobled by the imperial court, enjoyed in traditional cosiness.

Because Vienna was the centre of the Habsburg Empire, whose reach encompassed 600 million Eastern and Southern Europeans, you can expect to find a spectrum of cuisines beyond Austrian specialities. Besides Wiener Schnitzel and Hungarian Goulash, you'll find dumplings from Bohemia, Turkish coffee and superb pastries and desserts. Vienna is also famous for its coffee-houses and heurigen (wine cellars).

The traditional meal is Tafelspitz (boiled beef - the national dish of Austria) and the world-renowned Sachertorte for dessert. Other Specialities: Tafelspitz (boiled beef), Lungenbraten (beef tenderloin stuffed with goose liver, served with cream sauce and dumplings), Rahmschnitzel (creamed veal cutlet) and, of course, Wiener Schnitzel, Krenfleisch (stewed pork with horseradish), Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef with onions), or one of the varieties of goulash.

Did you know that Viennese cuisine is the only one in the world named after a city? This is all the more remarkable as almost all its dishes derive from other European countries.

For more than 1000 years the Austrian monarchistic empire was widely extended in Europe and was mixed up with multiple different nationalities and cultures, focused in the empire's capital and reflected in the Cuisine.
But it took Viennese chefs to adapt the foreign recipes and make them uniquely Viennese - 'good plain cooking', the way it is served in any restaurant in Vienna. Taste a Wiener Schnitzel, a tender piece of veal cutlet wrapped in a delicate coating of bread-crumbs. Or try Tafelspitz, boiled beef brisket or rump roast accompanied by home-fried potatoes, apple-horseradish sauce and chive sauce Of course, Vienna is world-renowned for its pastries and desserts: take Kaiserschmarren (Emperor's Trifle) or a Strudel, filled with either apples or sweet cream cheese, or Gundel-Palatschinken (stuffed crepes with chocolate and nuts), or Germknödel (sweet dumplings with apricots or plums). Choose for yourself - imperial delights await you.

Like nowhere else in Austria, Vienna has a huge variety of places to eat and drink, most of them taking great care over preparation of their food. Despite Vienna's reputation, restaurant prices are fairly reasonable - and fairly uniform, though, of course, central places tend to be more expensive. Vienna gets its pricey reputation from its cafes or Kaffeehäuser, where a simple coffee can set you back as much as the equivalent of £2/$3. However, even in Kaffeehäuser, food tends to be very relatively inexpensive; the city's pubs, known as Beisln, are similarly priced. And the cheapest places of all, in which to eat are the city's student canteens or Mensen. Which offer no-frills food at discount prices. Lastly, if you'd rather drink wine than beer, head for one of Vienna's innumerable Heurigen or wine taverns, most of which are located in the wine-growing suburbs, with a few monastic ones in the centre of town. Here, you can imbibe the local plonk, and usually enjoy simple, traditional hot and cold meals.

A SMALL TASTE OF VIENNA´S MANY CULINARY DELIGHTS

Viennese cuisine is in fact a conglomerate of many different cuisines, most of them imported from the different nations of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy: crispy breaded Wiener Schnitzel is a worthy heir to Italian piccata Milanese; the heritage of those delicious Austrian dumplings filled with either meat or fruit may be found somewhere in the Bohemian regions; and Viennese Palatschinken (thin pancakes with a variety of fillings) hail directly from Budapest - where they are known as palacsinta. Vienna's culinary spectrum is as wide-ranging as the tastes of its multicultural citizens.

Nouvelle cuisine has made its way to the city  where famous chefs lend a special old-fashioned Viennese flair to newly created dishes. In the city where cholesterolish high-calorie food used to be the daily fare, health food has been welcomed with open arms. Viennese, like the rest of the civilised world, live a better and healthier life these days.

But this does not mean that some of the sinfully rich dishes of the past have entirely disappeared from Vienna's menus. The discerning gourmet still has a choice between succulent pork roast or the less fattening

Tafelspitz (boiled beef tenderloin); between a Wiener Schnitzel and a vegetable platter; or between heavy meat dumplings and a refreshing salad.

Austrian Wine

Austria produces some delicious wine, especially in Niederösterreich in the Wachau valley of the Danube, on the outskirts of Vienna, and in Burgenland. In Vienna and Burgenland, the way to enjoy wine is to spend a summer evening in a Heurige. Traditionally marked by pine boughs over the door, a typical Heurige is a tavern with outdoor seating at picnic tables in an enclosed courtyard, under a grape arbour, with the stars visible through the leaves. This year's wine is served from the pitcher in glass mugs, with a pitcher of mineral water to prevent hangovers or to make a Gespritzer (wine spritzer). In my opinion, the best wine to order is Grüner Veltliner, a very refreshing dry greenish white wine, but if you want red then a pitcher of Blauer Burgunder is delicious too.

EAT YOUR CAKE AND HAVE IT TOO

There is simply no excuse not to sample Vienna's delicious pastry - an unwritten law applying to all tourists suspends all calorie values for the duration of consider it culinary research! To list all the pastry delights you can encounter in Vienna is impossible, but it is not very difficult to find out for yourself. You definitely have to taste a Sachertorte (Sacher Cake)

with whipped cream (mit Schlag) - by the way, the Viennese take their pastries so seriously a court had to decide which pastry shop was permitted to carry the label "original" (The Hotel Sacher won the case).

Let your eyes and your taste buds be you r guide through the great variety of wonderful Viennese pastries and desserts. And as to "Apfelstrudel" and "Guglhupf": you only have to eat them, nobody forces you to pronounce them!